Faikin Ninja — Frequently Asked Questions

What is the Faikin P1P2 and who is it for?

It is a small module that gives you local control of Daikin systems that connect over the P1/P2 control bus — VRV/VRF, Sky Air, and ducted and cassette systems run from a wired wall controller (such as a BRC1E). It also reaches older Daikin systems with no X50A port, or the blue X50A port the standard cable cannot use. These are the systems the standard Faikin Faikout cannot reach. It also suits Mitsubishi Heavy Industries VRF/VRV systems on the 2-wire X-Y bus via the MHI version (the 5-wire MHI systems are not covered).

Do I need the module, the cable, or the kit?

• Module only — if you are happy to make your own two-wire connection to P1/P2. A short length of two-core wire is all it takes.
• Cable on its own — a ready-made lead if you already have a module. One cable suits both connection points.
• Module and cable kit — both together, and cheaper than buying them separately.

Prices for your country are shown on the product pages: module, cables, module and cable kit.

Where do I connect the cable?

The module taps onto the P1/P2 bus. On most systems that bus runs all the way from the indoor unit to the wired wall controller, so you can connect at whichever end is easier to reach.

There is one cable and it suits both. Its ferrule-blade terminals land on the indoor unit's P1/P2 terminal block, and they sit in the screw terminals behind a wired wall controller. The slim form factor also suits the shallow cavity behind a modern wall controller.

Check behind your wall controller before you start. Not every system carries P1/P2 all the way to the wall. On many installations the P1/P2 pair runs from the indoor unit to a zone controller mounted in or near the indoor unit, and only a flat telephone-style lead continues from there to the wall controller. On those systems there is nothing at the wall for the module to connect to, so it has to go in at the indoor unit or the zone controller.

It takes a minute to check. Pop the wall controller off its wall plate and look at what is behind it:

• Two wires into screw terminals — that is P1/P2 at the wall, and it is usually the easier install.
• A flat 8-way RJ12 plug, like a telephone lead — P1/P2 does not reach the wall, so connect at the indoor unit or the zone controller.

Daikin zone controller kits (BRC24Z, BRC230Z or BRCSZC series) are always the second case, so connect at the indoor unit. On those the wall controller connects to a separate zone module box using an RJ-style plug, and the P1/P2 bus runs between the indoor unit and that zone module box.

While you have it off the wall, count the wires. Look at how many wires land on each of the P1 and P2 terminals. One on each means your wall controller is the only other device on the bus, and the module drops straight in as the second. Two on each means the bus carries on to something else — often a second wall panel elsewhere in the building, a slave controller, or an infrared receiver — and because the bus takes only two devices, that second one has to come off before the module can go on. Tell us what you find and we will talk you through it.

Not sure? Send us your indoor model and wall controller and we will tell you which end to use.

WiFi or Matter — which do I pick?

You pick one per module when you order, and it cannot be changed afterwards. They are two different firmware builds, and both cost the same. The difference is how the module gets onto your WiFi in the first place; which apps you can use follows from that.

• WiFi — the module broadcasts its own setup network, named FaikinAC followed by four characters. You join it from a browser on any phone or laptop, enter your home WiFi details, and it is online. No hub of any kind is required. It then runs the local web interface, MQTT, Home Assistant and Apple Home. It has no Matter, so it cannot be added to Google Home, Amazon Alexa, Samsung SmartThings or Aqara.
• Matter — the module has no setup network of its own. It is handed your WiFi details during Matter commissioning, so a Matter hub is what brings it online at all: an Apple TV or HomePod, a Google Nest hub or speaker, an Amazon Echo, a SmartThings hub or an Aqara hub. Your router also needs IPv6 and mDNS enabled. Once commissioned it covers Apple Home, Google Home, Amazon Alexa, Samsung SmartThings and Aqara together, plus the local web interface, MQTT and Home Assistant.

If you do not already run a Matter hub, choose WiFi. It is the build that can get itself onto your network unaided. See the pairing and network guide for the full hub list and requirements.

What smart-home apps does it work with?

That depends on the build you order. The Matter build works with Apple Home, Google Home, Amazon Alexa, Samsung SmartThings, Aqara and Home Assistant, with no bridge and no cloud account. The WiFi build works with Home Assistant and Node-RED over MQTT, with the local web interface, and with Apple Home. Both builds run entirely on your own network.

Why do I see two extra switches, or lights, in Apple Home?

A Matter module presents four accessories in Apple Home: a thermostat, a fan, and two switches. The two switches are fan-only mode and dehumidify mode. Apple Home has no built-in control for either of those two modes, so we expose them as switches instead.

They are meant to re-name themselves to those labels when the module is commissioned. When that does not happen they arrive as generic accessories, and Apple Home often draws a generic accessory as a light, which is why they can look like something has gone wrong. Nothing has. You can rename them yourself: press and hold the accessory in Apple Home, open its settings, and set the name.

If toggling either switch makes no difference to your system, that is worth telling us about. Send your module number and firmware build and we will look into it.

Will my existing wall controller still work?

Yes, in the normal case. The module sits on the P1/P2 bus alongside your existing wired wall controller and does not replace it. The module in fact needs a main controller on the bus, so keeping your wall controller is exactly right.

The one thing to know is the two-device limit: a Daikin P1/P2 bus takes a maximum of two control devices, one main and one sub. A standard wall controller plus the module is two, so that works. It only becomes a choice if you have a zone controller and a separate standard wall controller as well — see the next question.

To check quickly whether your bus already has a second device on it, take the wall controller off its plate and count the wires on the P1 and P2 terminals: two wires on each terminal means the bus runs on to something else, and that something else will need to come off before the module goes on.

Can it control my ducted zones?

Yes. On Daikin systems with a zone controller (BRC24Z, BRC230Z or BRCSZC series), the module can open and close your individual zones, so you can run them from your app or automations. Zone support for more brands is coming.

A Daikin zone controller kit counts as one device on the bus, so the usual setup is simply: your zone controller stays as the main device and the module joins as the sub. You keep your physical zone panel and gain full app and Home Assistant control — nothing has to be removed.

The two-device limit only forces a choice if you have a zone controller and a separate standard wall controller as well, which would be three. In that case the zone controller stays and the standard wall controller comes off the bus, because three controllers on the bus can make the unit switch itself on or off and reset the fan speed.

Does it work with IFTTT?

Not directly — IFTTT does not speak the module's local protocols. You can still automate it through IFTTT via Home Assistant, which controls the module over MQTT and connects to IFTTT with webhooks, or, on the Matter build, through your voice platform once the module is added to Google Home, Amazon Alexa or Samsung SmartThings.

Do I need to flash the firmware, or can I flash it myself?

Neither. There is no firmware for you to flash. Every module ships tested with its firmware already loaded, and you pick the build when you order: WiFi, which joins your network through its own setup page and runs the local web interface, MQTT, Home Assistant and Apple Home, or Matter, which joins your network through Matter commissioning and covers Apple Home, Google Home, Amazon Alexa, Samsung SmartThings and Aqara. After that, firmware updates arrive automatically over the air, so it stays up to date on its own.

Do I need a hub or bridge?

On the WiFi build, no. It brings itself onto your network through its own setup page, and the local web interface, MQTT and Home Assistant all work with nothing else in the house.

On the Matter build, yes. Matter commissioning is what hands the module your WiFi details, so a Matter controller has to be present before it can come online at all. An iPhone or iPad on iOS 18 or newer is enough for Apple Home at home; Google Home, Alexa, SmartThings and Aqara each need that platform's own hub or speaker at the property. The pairing and network guide lists what works, including hubs you may already own.

How does it install?

It connects to the two P1 and P2 terminals, at the indoor unit or the wired wall controller, and is powered from the unit (12–16V DC, under 1W). The P1/P2 bus is low voltage, but always isolate the system at the breaker before opening anything. If you are not comfortable working inside the unit or controller, use a qualified installer. A step-by-step guide is provided.

Does fitting one void my Daikin warranty?

Installers sometimes say it does. It is worth checking what Daikin actually publishes, because the wording is narrower than the claim.

Daikin Australia's Domestic Warranty Card (part DADW0203, on their own site under Support, then Warranty) has no clause voiding the warranty for fitting a third-party accessory. There is no "unauthorised modification" clause, no non-genuine-parts clause, and no requirement that the work be done by an accredited person. The two exclusions that touch on this are worded as cause and effect rather than as conditions:

• c) Damage or problems caused by the use of an accessory, component or equipment not supplied by Daikin Australia.
• b) Damage or problems resulting from incorrect or poor installation.

So a fault our module actually caused would not be covered by Daikin, which is fair enough, and would be ours to sort out rather than theirs. But a compressor or control board failing two years later is not "caused by" an accessory on the control bus, and nothing in the card lets Daikin decline cover on the whole unit simply because one is fitted.

The card itself also states, in capitals, that the rights it gives are in addition to your statutory rights. Under Australian Consumer Law those consumer guarantees run independently of any manufacturer warranty. The ACCC's published position is that a manufacturer cannot require you to use its own parts or servicing to keep them, and in 2018 the Federal Court fined Apple $9 million over that kind of claim, declaring that repair by someone other than the manufacturer "did not, and could not" extinguish a consumer's rights.

Two practical points either way. Nothing is cut, soldered or modified: the module plugs into the same connector Daikin's own optional WiFi adaptor uses, or lands two wires on the control bus, and it comes back out in seconds leaving no trace. And your installer does not have to touch it. They can fit the air conditioner, and the modules can go in afterwards as a separate job.

What are the returns and warranty terms?

No-risk returns apply if it does not work in your setup.

How do I check my model is compatible?

Compatibility is confirmed per indoor model. Send us your model number and controller and we will check, or use the compatibility and cable-selection database on our site.